The history of Farinella
First, it's important to consider the history of this food; in fact, farinella was a staple of peasant meals, along with other products like dried figs, wild herbs, and wild onions.
In the 1700s, Farinella began to appear in recipe books and was also appreciated by the nobility: plain, on pasta with sauce, on well-seasoned vegetables, with boiled potatoes or seasonal fruit, or as a dessert mixed with sugar. Over time, the tradition of consuming this product faded, becoming an agricultural staple that is struggling to survive.
Still on the subject of history, it's worth noting a legend that tells of a few centuries ago, when the inhabitants of Putignano saved themselves from yet another Saracen raid by feigning a strange illness. The people of Putignano sprinkled their bodies with a powder, terrifying the invaders, who fled the town in haste. This powder was actually flour, called Farinella, or "a Farinedd" in the local dialect.
This product is unique to Putignano, making Farinella unknown in neighboring towns. In fact, it is from this product that the protagonist of the Putignano carnival, the eponymous Farinella mask, is derived. It is said that Farinella was responsible for saving the inhabitants of Putignano from the Saracen invasion.
What is Farinella?
But what exactly is Farinella? It's a humble but highly nutritious meal with ancient roots, especially abundant in less wealthy families. It was eaten as polenta, cooked in a wild herb broth. Leftovers would become firmer, be sliced, and then carried by workers to the fields.
Over time, the use of Farinella in Putignano's cuisine has evolved. Initially, this flour made from toasted and ground chickpeas and barley replaced bread in Putignano homes. Sometimes, this precious ingredient was mixed with water (perhaps the water used to cook vegetables), oil, and salt, or with a few olives or onions, other vegetables, and even fresh fruit or sugar, to create a simple dessert.
How is Farinella used today?
Today's use of Farinella is vastly different. First, it's important to emphasize that there is only one producer left who still works with this ingredient: Paolo Campanella. He comes from a family of millers for four generations, and in fact, he prides himself on keeping this tradition alive. Campanella complements his work by processing other flours—burnt wheat, Khorasan—always using artisanal methods that respect the product and its integrity.
Farinella is an essential ingredient as it adds body to sauces and gravies, gives substance to vegetables and herbs, and transforms a vegetable dish into a full-course meal. A particularly good pairing is Farinella with fried lampascioni, perhaps adding a drop of cooked figs.
Many recipes use Farinella, such as those from the Antica Locanda di Noci or Chef Angelo Sabatelli's eponymous restaurant, which serves risotto with porcini mushrooms and foie gras in pancotto, or the inevitable pairing with fried lampascioni (beautiful vegetable sculptures) and cooked figs. There are also those who use it to make puff pastry, bread, and sweets.
Furthermore, on Shrove Tuesday, which marks the end of Carnival, a recipe with potatoes stuffed with Farinella is made.
Today, Farinella can also be used as an ingredient in taralli, polenta, broccoli rabe, and sweet polenta. We offer Farinella taralli, which are perfect for a meal when served with cured meats, cheeses, and red wine.
Product safety
To safeguard the product, efforts are underway to rebuild the Farinella supply chain, with the aim of reintroducing local culture, traditions, and flavors. It's no coincidence that the Farinella community was born. It involves farmers, millers, chefs and traders to protect and promote this ancient product with the aim of obtaining the Slow Food Presidium.